Kyiv: a tour of the city

The 10 historic buildings and structures described here are some of the most loved by residents and visitors to the capital of Ukraine, one of eastern Europe’s oldest cities.

A tour of 10 highlights of Kyiv.

Introduction

Ukraine has taken centre stage in the past few months, and sadly not for the right reasons. It is a country rich in history and beautiful landscapes, and there is so much to see and to learn about it.

I had the privilege of living in Kyiv in 2019 and have visited many times. I made friends with many Ukrainians from all walks of life during my time there. They opened up their lives to me, and showed me some of their favourite buildings around the city that they call home. This instilled a deep sense of appreciation as to how and why these buildings are the way they are, shaped through the city’s social and political history. There are churches which are almost otherworldly, capturing the character of Ukraine perfectly.

This article is a whistlestop tour of 10 places that have captured the hearts and minds of Ukrainians and visitors alike. Several have been chosen by Ukrainians who know Kyiv better than most. This list is by no means exhaustive, but provides an insight into some beautifully conserved, restored and preserved places.

The tour

We start the tour to the south-east of the centre of Kyiv at the Motherland Monument. Looking over the Dnieper River, it dominates the skyline as you enter the city from the east.

Motherland monument

The Motherland monument is a 62-metre-tall memorial and museum, locally known as ‘Brezhnev’s daughter’. It honours the ‘Heroes of Victory’ over the Nazi invaders. Designed by Evgeny Vuchetich and inaugurated in 1981, it remains a prominent part of Ukraine’s heritage.

Anna, a children’s nurse, chose the Motherland monument as her favourite place in Kyiv. ‘I have always admired the monument, it is visible from all sides of the city,’ she says. ‘The shield and sword in her hands have always instilled in me an association with a strong, brave and independent country – my Ukraine! She has endured pain and persecution many times but has always stood her ground, strong and invincible. I am sure that this time after the suffering she will survive and win.’

Moving further north, you stroll the through the 22-acre park, passing other chapels of interest and eventually arriving at a Unesco world heritage site.

Pechersk Lavra

The Pechersk Lavra is an Orthodox Christian monastery and cave complex. Founded in 1051, it has the appearance of its own township. Its most prominent structure is the 96.5-metre, 18th-century Great Bell Tower, designed by Gottfried Johann Schädel. The monks make traditional soup borscht, which they serve to visitors and worshippers.

After your visit, you will walk through the park of the Mariinskyi Palace, home of the Ukrainian president. Walk down Shovkovychna Street and to the left you will see the Chocolate House.

The Chocolate House

The Chocolate House was built for a famous philanthropist, Semen Mogilevstev. The building is a copy of a Renaissance palace. Now a museum, it can be hired for events and functions. Yevgeniia, a writer, chose the Chocolate House. ‘Not only because you want to eat it when you see it, but also because of its unique rooms inside. On the second floor each room has its own style, and you feel as though you are travelling through the history of design. It used to be the house where couples got married.’

Nearby are the presidential buildings, of which one is Gorodetsky House.

Gorodetsky House (The House with Chimeras)

This was a notable backdrop to one of the videos that President Zelensky made early in the war. It was built in 1903 by Vladislav Gorodetsky, a prominent Ukrainian architect. Designed as a bet with his friends, the ornate exterior includes mythical beasts and creatures which capture the imagination. It is now a government building, used for receptions and meetings.

Heading further south, but worth the walk, you will pass the Planetarium and the main sports stadium before you reach a rather impressive gothic church.

St Nicholas Cathedral

In 1909, Gorodetsky led the construction of the gothic St Nicholas Roman Catholic cathedral. It is said that an innovative construction technology of reinforced concrete was used to create its piles. Many of its other elements were also made from reinforced concrete. The building is now suffering from defects of this modern material, but it remains a much-loved and prominent building. ‘St Nicholas stands out for me among Kyiv’s structures,’ says Natalia, a designer. ‘The majesty of the church occupies your attention instantly when you drive down the street.’

As you walk towards the Golden Gates, you begin to feel that you are reaching the heart of the city. Rows of historic apartment blocks line the streets.

The Golden Gates

The Golden Gates fort is one of the few surviving sections of the ancient city fortifications. Built by Yaroslav the Wise, it was designed in the Byzantine style. Its ruins were rediscovered in 1832, and were exposed and conserved, and a new gate structure was built. Heritage specialists debate the 1982 restoration, but it still remains a dominant and important part of Ukrainian history.

A short stroll away you pass coffee houses and restaurants, many specialising in Ukrainian and Georgian cuisine. You will be met by a rather unusual building, now called the House of Actors.

Karaite Kenesa Temple (Ukrainian House of Actors)

This unusual building was built in the Moorish style in the late 19th century as a Karaite Kenesa Temple. The architect was Gorodetsky, featured several times on this tour, who played a significant role in the architecture of Kyiv. The building is now a concert space.

Turning north, you join Volodymyrs’kyi Street to take you to Volodymyrs’kyi Passage.

St Sophia Cathedral and St Michael Cathedral

These two entirely separate buildings dominate opposing ends of the Volodymyrs’kyi Passage. St Sophia Cathedral was founded between 1037 and 1044 by Grand Prince Yorslav the Wise. Designated a Unesco world heritage site in 1990, its name comes from the 6th-century Hagia Sofia. Its wedding-cake-like bell tower provides a magical entrance to the site. ‘It is one of the most breath-taking works of architecture and a main attraction of the capital,’ writes Viktorija, a teacher.

‘It is extremely beautiful, playing with its golden light of domes under the Ukrainian sky. I am lucky to experience the cathedral and its spiritual beauty.’

St Michael’s was founded in 1108, but was heavily damaged in 1240 by the hordes of Batu. It was largely rebuilt in the 18th century, and again following damage in the 1930s. It is an interesting example of building restoration.

‘The golden-domed monastery is a perfect combination of blue and yellow gold – a true representation of Ukraine,’ says Galina, a linguist. ‘When you listen to their choir your heart trembles and there are no words that can fully describe the beauty.’

Nearby is the main square and the shopping quarters.

Maidan Nezalezhnosti Square/ Khreshchatyk Street

Maidan Nezalezhnosti, also known as Independence Square, is steeped in political history. Since Ukraine’s independence the square has become known for political rallies, including four large-scale radical protest campaigns: the 1990 student ‘Revolution on Granite’, the 2001 ‘Ukraine without Kuchma’, the 2004 ‘Orange Revolution’, and the 2013–14 ‘Euromaidan’. Underground is a large shopping centre, and to the south is Khreshchatyk Street, the main hub for shopping.

If you pass through the square north, you will walk a gentle slope towards Andrew’s Descent, which leads to the historic quarter Podil.

Andrew’s Descent and St Andrew’s church

Andrew’s Descent, a popular tourist spot, is one of the city’s oldest historic quarters. At the top of the hill is the 18th-century St Andrew’s church, for which conservation works were recently completed. ‘I like it for its beauty and grandeur,’ says Hassan, an architect. ‘Although I preach Islam, I have been to this beautiful place many times. The baroque St Andrew’s is an Orthodox church, a monument of architecture and painting. It is of outstanding design and utmost importance to Kyiv and beyond.’

On weekends and holidays the roads are lined with market stalls selling traditional Ukrainian items such as the Vyshivanka clothing and Ushanka hats. Should you want to avoid the steep hill, you can travel by the funicular, which has been operating since 1905. At the bottom of the hill is a popular place for markets and events that provides access to the river front, and a pedestrian suspension bridge that takes you to the city’s ‘river beach’.

Yaryna, a coordinator, chose the Descent. ‘I can walk there for hours. The miniature and historic buildings are bright with different colours. There are cafes, and hidden viewing points that stretch across the city’.

Learn more about Kyiv

Discover Ukraine’s website https://discover.ua/en offers digital 3D tours on the country’s history.

Just outside of Kyiv is the open-air National Museum of Folk Architecture and Life. The site’s large collection of dwellings and religious buildings give a detailed insight into how Ukrainians lived http://www.museumportal.com/en/museum/natsionalniymuzey-arhitektury-tapobutu-ukrayiny.

NGOs and local movements recognising buildings of historic value are fighting for their restoration. One group created the ‘Map Renovation’, recording more than 200 places in Kyiv http://renovationmap.org.

This article originally appeared in the Institute of Historic Building Conservation’s (IHBC’s) Context 172, published in June 2022. It was written by Louise Priestman, a conservation architect at Shaw and Jagger, based in Harrogate.

--Institute of Historic Building Conservation

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